Chilean Asados: Vegetarians Beware

As the summer months are wrapping up in Chile so are the asados - the BBQs (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asado).  But the summer is just getting started in the US and thus we wanted to share this post, in the thought that perhaps some of you may try to incorporate some Chilean traditions into your summer plans.  

Here is Victor's family seated for a weekend asado

Chileans, like all South Americans, have a strong tradition of large  gatherings, family or friends, centered around a BBQ on a weekend.   The asado season (similar to hunting season in a way in regards to the quantity of meat involved) starts with the Chilean National Holiday Sept 17-18, and lasts through the end of March, with the peak point in January with an asado every weekend.  As you saw from our Christmas blog post, the Christmas weekend was celebrated with a giant family asado.  
So here are all the ingredients for what it takes to make a Chilean Asado.  Enjoy!

The tables set for a meal on the patio.   

1) The right location
Victor's family (on his Mom's side, the Silva family) has a large countryside house just outside of Santiago, where everyone gathers on the weekend for the asados (the same place where we had the wedding).  The house is a beautiful old hacienda style house, with a central formal living and dining room, and then two wings that have 15 bed rooms in total.  The back patio (the center of the U shape) is where they have the meals in the summer, outside in the afternoon sun.  The tables are set for anywhere from 15-45 people, depending on how many family members can join.
But a house and space of this size is not necessary as we have been to asados in apartments, on a small back porch just big enough to fit the grill.

2) The right food
Here is the normal sequence of a Chilean Asado

Victor's cousin Felipe enjoying salami

You start with appetizers, which usually include peanuts mixed with golden raisins, salami, potato chips, Philadelphia Cream cheese spread on crackers and un-pitted olives.  The drink of choice is mango sour (a sugary alcoholic drink made with Chilean pisco) or a fruit punch.  Appetizers last for ~20-30 minutes while the next course (choripan) is cooking. 

Now the meat begins.  Choripan (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Choripán) comes next, which consists of sausage cooked on the grill over charcoals in a toasted baguette.  Don't confuse this with a hotdog, as it is nothing of the sort.  The sausage is not usually spicy, but it is a good beef sausage about 5 inches long. You don't use any ketchup or mustard.  The only condiment is pebre, which is a salsa style mixture of parsley, garlic, tomato, onion and salt (which is the Chilean national seasoning). The pebre recipe is below, and know it is really good served on warm bread or rolls. 

  

There is also the meat on the grill.  One thing that is different, and which Chileans are quite proud of, is how the meat is cooked.  There are no lighter infused-charcoals, or gas flames.  The meat is cooked over a bed of charcoal that is slowly, and carefully, created from cooking wood and coals.  

Keep in mind that the first 2 parts of the meal occur while people are sitting, chatting and wandering around.   But once the choirpan has been eaten people move to the table.  While the meal is eaten in a formal table lay out, everyone grabs their food in a buffet style.  There is a long table set up with 3-4 salads.  The salads usually include: Ensalada Chilena (tomato and onion), corn salad, avocado and a green salad.  You grab a plate, serve yourself and the pass by the grill to get your meat, where you chose the cut and size of meat.  Wine and water are on the table.

Ensalada Chilena
Ingredients:
4 ripe tomatoes
1 medium onion sliced julienne style
cilantro
salt to taste
oil, preferably olive
1. Soak the onion in salted boiling water.
2. This softens and removes some of the sharpness from the onion.
3. Wash, peel and slice the tomatoes.
4. Finely chop the cilantro.
5. Drain and rinse the onion, squeezing out all the water.
6. Add to the tomatoes and cilantro and dress with oil and salt to taste.

Eating and enjoying the meal usually takes around 45 min as people usually have seconds, and there is always about 15 conversations going on during the meal - all at the same time.  
The plates are cleaned and then on to dessert. While the dessert varies at asados, my personal favorite, and a traditional Chilean dessert, is Mote con Huesillos.  I will admit I had never seen anything like this before coming to Chile and the first time I saw it I thought it was some horrible thing (as it has been quite unattractive at one point in the process).  The dessert is comprised of dehydrated peaches (pit included) that are sun dried (so they can store them to eat the dessert in the winter).  The day before they want to eat them they rehydrate the huesillos with water and sugar, cook it for a few hours, and serve it with motte.  Mote is a wheat that has been boiled and the husk removed.  It has a tender and meaty texture and is the perfect accompaniment for the huesillos. I will admit that if I had not eaten this before, it does sound odd, but trust me that this is a truly wonderful dessert!

3) The right company

Friends, family or distant relatives, or even distant friends... really anyone is welcome and the more the merrier.  We hope that everyone will make sure to add some of these traditions to their summer plans, as what is summer for other than to get together with friends and family and celebrate the weather, company and good food.  

We send our best from Chile, where the fall is settling in and things are quite brisk.  

-Dessa and Victor

Chilean Pebre

2 white onions, chopped
10 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
fresh cilantro - rinse in cold water; twist off stems; twist to tear in half; chop
2 lemons, juiced

2 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 c. olive oil
1/2 c. salt

Directions:
1. Combine onions with salt (to taste). Mix and let set for 10 minutes.
2. Peel tomatoes, chop cilantro, mix together.
3. Squeeze out excess moisture in onions. Mix with tomatoes and cilantro.
4. Add rest of ingredients and mix together.

Buenos Aires, Argentina

As I had to go on a work trip to the Ashoka office in Buenos Aires, Argentina (they really had to twist my arm to do this one ;) we decided to make a weekend of the trip. Buenos Aires is only a 2.5 hour flight away and Victor joined for the weekend and we had a great time in the beautiful,  yet really hot, city of Buenos Aires.  For all of those of you who have not yet had the chance to visit Argentina we highly recommend it. Buenos Aires is a cosmopolitan city with history, beautiful architecture, incredible food and marvelous shopping.



We also had the joy of seeing the city with locals, as Gaston and Maria are our good friends (Gaston and I work together at Ashoka).  They were the most generous of hosts and they not only showed us the city, but we spent the last day of our trip with them at their family house in the countryside for a BBQ.


Buenos Aires, or BA as the locals call it, is a very diverse city and has lots of different and unique neighborhoods.  While we were only there for a few days, we did a good job moving around and getting to see a great deal of the city.  Here are a few of the highlights.

La Boca: This is a vibrant and artsy neighborhood well known for the soccer team Boca.While it has become touristy over the years it is still a beautiful space and worth the visit. We came across these kids playing soccer.  You can see the "Boca" sign behind them.    

La Boca is also known for tango.  I have to say I am not sure how many Argentinians actually dance tango on a regular basis, but the country has a strong pride for the dance.  These tango dancers were on the street dancing in front of a restaurant, and they were quite good.  For those of you at our wedding, you will know that Victor has a special place in his heart for tango.  

Recoleta:  This is one of the oldest parts of Buenos Aires, and it has a very international and European air to it, with large beautiful facades to the buildings, large parks and elegant shopping and dining.  This part of town also boasts the Recoleta Cemetery, which is the most famous resting place in Argentina.  It houses the tombs of Evita Peron, most of Argentina's past presidents (and even a few dictators), as well as the founders of the country.  It is a beautiful space with large trees, winding pathways, and impressive sculptures.

               
 This is Evita's tomb


We spent the good part of an afternoon wandering the corridors of the Cementary. To finish off a wonderful day we went out to an incredible meal at Urondo Bar, which is a place Gaston and I had been to before when I was in Argentina for work in 2010.  I must say that the food in Argentina is incredible, and Urondo Bar is a little hidden treat.  While I sadly didn't get a photo of the meal, here is a screen shot of the location, and if you are ever in town I recommend a visit.

Puerto Madera:
This is the old port of Buenos Aires that has recently been renovated with new apartment complexes, some of the cities best restaurants and a office buildings.  It is a beautiful walk from Recoleta and you can walk along the waterfront.

We ended the weekend with a wonderful meal and afternoon with Gaston and Maria, eating yet again more Argentinian meet.  I must say we didn't mind at all. It was the perfect end to a wonderful weekend.  Thanks Gaston and Maria for being the best of hosts.

For those who haven't been... get yourself to Argentina, unless you are a vegetarian, and then I might think again.  

-Dessa and Victor