Chilean Asados: Vegetarians Beware

As the summer months are wrapping up in Chile so are the asados - the BBQs (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asado).  But the summer is just getting started in the US and thus we wanted to share this post, in the thought that perhaps some of you may try to incorporate some Chilean traditions into your summer plans.  

Here is Victor's family seated for a weekend asado

Chileans, like all South Americans, have a strong tradition of large  gatherings, family or friends, centered around a BBQ on a weekend.   The asado season (similar to hunting season in a way in regards to the quantity of meat involved) starts with the Chilean National Holiday Sept 17-18, and lasts through the end of March, with the peak point in January with an asado every weekend.  As you saw from our Christmas blog post, the Christmas weekend was celebrated with a giant family asado.  
So here are all the ingredients for what it takes to make a Chilean Asado.  Enjoy!

The tables set for a meal on the patio.   

1) The right location
Victor's family (on his Mom's side, the Silva family) has a large countryside house just outside of Santiago, where everyone gathers on the weekend for the asados (the same place where we had the wedding).  The house is a beautiful old hacienda style house, with a central formal living and dining room, and then two wings that have 15 bed rooms in total.  The back patio (the center of the U shape) is where they have the meals in the summer, outside in the afternoon sun.  The tables are set for anywhere from 15-45 people, depending on how many family members can join.
But a house and space of this size is not necessary as we have been to asados in apartments, on a small back porch just big enough to fit the grill.

2) The right food
Here is the normal sequence of a Chilean Asado

Victor's cousin Felipe enjoying salami

You start with appetizers, which usually include peanuts mixed with golden raisins, salami, potato chips, Philadelphia Cream cheese spread on crackers and un-pitted olives.  The drink of choice is mango sour (a sugary alcoholic drink made with Chilean pisco) or a fruit punch.  Appetizers last for ~20-30 minutes while the next course (choripan) is cooking. 

Now the meat begins.  Choripan (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Choripán) comes next, which consists of sausage cooked on the grill over charcoals in a toasted baguette.  Don't confuse this with a hotdog, as it is nothing of the sort.  The sausage is not usually spicy, but it is a good beef sausage about 5 inches long. You don't use any ketchup or mustard.  The only condiment is pebre, which is a salsa style mixture of parsley, garlic, tomato, onion and salt (which is the Chilean national seasoning). The pebre recipe is below, and know it is really good served on warm bread or rolls. 

  

There is also the meat on the grill.  One thing that is different, and which Chileans are quite proud of, is how the meat is cooked.  There are no lighter infused-charcoals, or gas flames.  The meat is cooked over a bed of charcoal that is slowly, and carefully, created from cooking wood and coals.  

Keep in mind that the first 2 parts of the meal occur while people are sitting, chatting and wandering around.   But once the choirpan has been eaten people move to the table.  While the meal is eaten in a formal table lay out, everyone grabs their food in a buffet style.  There is a long table set up with 3-4 salads.  The salads usually include: Ensalada Chilena (tomato and onion), corn salad, avocado and a green salad.  You grab a plate, serve yourself and the pass by the grill to get your meat, where you chose the cut and size of meat.  Wine and water are on the table.

Ensalada Chilena
Ingredients:
4 ripe tomatoes
1 medium onion sliced julienne style
cilantro
salt to taste
oil, preferably olive
1. Soak the onion in salted boiling water.
2. This softens and removes some of the sharpness from the onion.
3. Wash, peel and slice the tomatoes.
4. Finely chop the cilantro.
5. Drain and rinse the onion, squeezing out all the water.
6. Add to the tomatoes and cilantro and dress with oil and salt to taste.

Eating and enjoying the meal usually takes around 45 min as people usually have seconds, and there is always about 15 conversations going on during the meal - all at the same time.  
The plates are cleaned and then on to dessert. While the dessert varies at asados, my personal favorite, and a traditional Chilean dessert, is Mote con Huesillos.  I will admit I had never seen anything like this before coming to Chile and the first time I saw it I thought it was some horrible thing (as it has been quite unattractive at one point in the process).  The dessert is comprised of dehydrated peaches (pit included) that are sun dried (so they can store them to eat the dessert in the winter).  The day before they want to eat them they rehydrate the huesillos with water and sugar, cook it for a few hours, and serve it with motte.  Mote is a wheat that has been boiled and the husk removed.  It has a tender and meaty texture and is the perfect accompaniment for the huesillos. I will admit that if I had not eaten this before, it does sound odd, but trust me that this is a truly wonderful dessert!

3) The right company

Friends, family or distant relatives, or even distant friends... really anyone is welcome and the more the merrier.  We hope that everyone will make sure to add some of these traditions to their summer plans, as what is summer for other than to get together with friends and family and celebrate the weather, company and good food.  

We send our best from Chile, where the fall is settling in and things are quite brisk.  

-Dessa and Victor

Chilean Pebre

2 white onions, chopped
10 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
fresh cilantro - rinse in cold water; twist off stems; twist to tear in half; chop
2 lemons, juiced

2 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 c. olive oil
1/2 c. salt

Directions:
1. Combine onions with salt (to taste). Mix and let set for 10 minutes.
2. Peel tomatoes, chop cilantro, mix together.
3. Squeeze out excess moisture in onions. Mix with tomatoes and cilantro.
4. Add rest of ingredients and mix together.

Buenos Aires, Argentina

As I had to go on a work trip to the Ashoka office in Buenos Aires, Argentina (they really had to twist my arm to do this one ;) we decided to make a weekend of the trip. Buenos Aires is only a 2.5 hour flight away and Victor joined for the weekend and we had a great time in the beautiful,  yet really hot, city of Buenos Aires.  For all of those of you who have not yet had the chance to visit Argentina we highly recommend it. Buenos Aires is a cosmopolitan city with history, beautiful architecture, incredible food and marvelous shopping.



We also had the joy of seeing the city with locals, as Gaston and Maria are our good friends (Gaston and I work together at Ashoka).  They were the most generous of hosts and they not only showed us the city, but we spent the last day of our trip with them at their family house in the countryside for a BBQ.


Buenos Aires, or BA as the locals call it, is a very diverse city and has lots of different and unique neighborhoods.  While we were only there for a few days, we did a good job moving around and getting to see a great deal of the city.  Here are a few of the highlights.

La Boca: This is a vibrant and artsy neighborhood well known for the soccer team Boca.While it has become touristy over the years it is still a beautiful space and worth the visit. We came across these kids playing soccer.  You can see the "Boca" sign behind them.    

La Boca is also known for tango.  I have to say I am not sure how many Argentinians actually dance tango on a regular basis, but the country has a strong pride for the dance.  These tango dancers were on the street dancing in front of a restaurant, and they were quite good.  For those of you at our wedding, you will know that Victor has a special place in his heart for tango.  

Recoleta:  This is one of the oldest parts of Buenos Aires, and it has a very international and European air to it, with large beautiful facades to the buildings, large parks and elegant shopping and dining.  This part of town also boasts the Recoleta Cemetery, which is the most famous resting place in Argentina.  It houses the tombs of Evita Peron, most of Argentina's past presidents (and even a few dictators), as well as the founders of the country.  It is a beautiful space with large trees, winding pathways, and impressive sculptures.

               
 This is Evita's tomb


We spent the good part of an afternoon wandering the corridors of the Cementary. To finish off a wonderful day we went out to an incredible meal at Urondo Bar, which is a place Gaston and I had been to before when I was in Argentina for work in 2010.  I must say that the food in Argentina is incredible, and Urondo Bar is a little hidden treat.  While I sadly didn't get a photo of the meal, here is a screen shot of the location, and if you are ever in town I recommend a visit.

Puerto Madera:
This is the old port of Buenos Aires that has recently been renovated with new apartment complexes, some of the cities best restaurants and a office buildings.  It is a beautiful walk from Recoleta and you can walk along the waterfront.

We ended the weekend with a wonderful meal and afternoon with Gaston and Maria, eating yet again more Argentinian meet.  I must say we didn't mind at all. It was the perfect end to a wonderful weekend.  Thanks Gaston and Maria for being the best of hosts.

For those who haven't been... get yourself to Argentina, unless you are a vegetarian, and then I might think again.  

-Dessa and Victor

Luna: the "Cat" in this blog

As the blog title says, there is a cat in this family.  And funny as it may be, the majority of the comments that we have received thus far for the site have been people asking for "More Cat" in the blog.

So, as we are loyal to our followers (blog sarcasm here), you are going to get what you asked for.  I decided to document one day in the life of Luna, and share with you her amazing feats and accomplishments.  

Here goes:

Yep, that's it.  She certainly does lead a tough life.


Hope the week is going well.


-Dessa & Victor

Second time around...

We got married...again... to each other.  I must say that trying to explain that in Spanish to a Chilean is quite the complicated situation.  But indeed, we did the whole party again, and this time 100% in Spanish.

Six months to the day from our first wedding in Leavenworth, Washington, we were married in Chile outside of Santiago, at Victor's family's countryside house.  We could think of no other place to tie the knot, as it is a very central place for our life in Chile, as well as being a beautiful location with the perfect yard.

While the day started out with some impressive thunder, the afternoon opened up and we had pure sunshine for our outdoor wedding.
I will let the pictures speak for themselves.

 These (photos below) are the two gentleman who married us. They are friends of Victor's from the Jesuit Novice House.  Christian and Pepe were ideal, as they know Victor well, and helped us create a ceremony that fit our needs, but that also fit within the cultural norms of a Catholic wedding.  We had live music as Victor's Uncle (the gentleman in the photo to the right with the white shirt) has an incredible voice and he, and a few equally talented friends of his, sang for our ceremony.

After the ceremony we had passed hors d'oeuvres on the lawn outside of the countryside house, under the trees in the warm summer sun.  I must say that the difference in the summer/winter of the hemispheres has been advantageous, as we were able to have 2 summer weddings 6 months apart, which is unique.
The majority of Victor's family joined us for the big day, and as his mother is one of 9, that made up for about half of the crowd.  Here are some of the special guests:

Victor's Aunt Tere and Grandma Nelly O'Connor 

(doesn't get more Irish than that but she is indeed 100% Chilean)

Victor's Mom Maria del Carmen (Carmela) and Victor Sr.

My parents had their first trip to Chile for the wedding and it was a great time.  While we had the wedding in the States translated for Victor's family I am sorry to say that my parents had to play it by ear.  Imagine attending your kid's wedding and not understanding a word.

My good friends Julie, Maya, Ande and Stacey (and Rusty not shown) all

came to Chile to join us for the wedding. 

It was so good to have them here and we would like to send a thank you

to all of them for making the long trip down to join us!

Here is the whole family.  

Following the photos and appetizers  the party moved to the tent (which was on the back lawn) for the food and dancing.  Here the real party begins.

Instead of The Gambler which was our first dance in the States we decided to have a more Chilean choice.  This second time around we decided (or attempted you should say) to dance the Cueca, which is a very traditional Chilean dance (it actually doesn't get any more traditional than this).  The dance is meant to imitate a rooster chasing a hen around the coop (we can just imagine the reasoning why).  And how this translates to a dance is that the guy chases the girl around the dance floor almost hoping up and down.  As we didn't have much practice, I must say it was quite the laugh.  To learn a bit more about the dance check out (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cueca).  

And then on to the real dancing...   

We had Zorba the Greek pay a visit (and Victor's ankle is still paying for it).  
Victor's nieces and nephews had a great time on the dance floor and here is a cute photo (left) of a group of them in their matching outfits.

Here we are with some fellow Chileans who are friends from Georgetown.

The night ended with a traditional Chilean song sung by all of 

Victor's cousins to the ladies of the party.  

It was a great end to a wonderful evening.

Hope you enjoyed the photos.

-Dessa & Victor

P.S...we promise.. no more wedding.  Two in less than a year is good for now ;)